A Peek to Iran, From our Winter Trip

We made our winter trip last month. A trip to Iran. A country many will imagine with stereotypical images of a nuclear threat, women clad in black chador and the bearded clergy of Shia, a heresy to those of sunni moslem. Almost everyone who was aware of our plan frowned in disbelief, even showed a glimpse of fear. But we didn't have the energy to explain. Our only defense was the relatively cheap flight from Kuala Lumpur. Something that was enough for us. In fact, it’s all we need. So we went ahead. Full of preparation for the harsh winter we’d been cautioned before. Full of enthusiasm for the chance to taste our first middle east experience. But not fully aware of what awaits us. 

We arrived in Imam Khomeini International Airport (IKA) in the dead of night. And after swiftly passed the immigration, we headed to Tehran. It took an hour to get to the city center. Thank God my husband arranged a pick up from the hotel. I thought we will be greeted by an extreme temperature change in our arrival at the airport just like my experiences in Nepal or China in previous years. But I was so wrong. It was all warm and cozy. They had heaters. Lots.

My first day in the capital was not very special. As it was Friday which is a public holiday in Iran. No business. We found it hard to find shop to buy local simcard, even to find something to eat. So we just walked through Imam Khomeini street and tried our luck on metro, a kind of subway. It took us 5 minutes from Imam Khomeini station to the former US embassy in Taleghani. The local government dubbed “Den of Espionage” is now the home of Sepah – Army of The Guardians of the Islamic Revolution. It’s not hard to find the structure. Exit the Taleghani Metro Station and looking at a long imposing colorful wall full of provocative mural of anti-US sentiment slogans. 

Right outside the Taleghani Metro Station, a big slogan welcomes us

We had plenty of time before taking the night bus to Shiraz, so we killed the time wandering through the bazaar. Not much to find, as we thought it’s too early for shopping. But I was happy enough to find the fresh juice stall selling my favorite fruit. The pomegranate. Fresh, and ripe and coldpressed. The juice making was a show itself.

Pomegranate juice stall. The seller looks a bit like Ahmad Dhani. LOL

Our first stop after Tehran was Shiraz. It took us 13 hours journey. But it was all pleasant, as the VIP bus we choosed was new and very comfortable. It had three seats in every row, with generous leg room and hot dinner included. It cost us $18 per person very value for money. The only thing annoying was Ishtar catching a cold due to extreme weather change.

I woke up somewhere before we reached  Shiraz and being mesmerized with the view en route. It was something I couldn’t explain, watching the sun rose behind the mountainous desert, the dark shade of blue with a burst of orange behind the mountain shadow. This panoramic view helped me enjoying the journey as I found the intercity busses drove in a maximum 100km/hours with police patrol in every now and then to check the driver not exceeding the speed limit. A very slow drive for me LOL

My morning view en route to Shiraz

From the Shiraz Karandish bus terminal to hotel was another swift journey. It’s a 4km drive to the old district of Shiraz where my husband booked a room in the newly established Forough Boutique Hotel. It’s an old house restored and turn into a hotel. As a typical old Persian houses, it’s surely complete with courtyard and a pool, and an orange tree. How poetic. 

Forough Ol Molk Boutique Hotel, our host for three nights in Shiraz

Shiraz is the capital of Fars province, one of the oldest city in Iran and had long been reknown as the city of all things romantic, think about gardens, wine and poets. But this time my eyes was set only to Pasargadae and Persepolis. The ruins of ancient Persia capital situated 60km northeast the modern day Shiraz.

Tomb of Cyrus the Great at Pasargadae

In front of the Necropolis - complex of tombs belong to Darius The Great, Artaxerxes and Darius II

The Gate of All Nation

Bass relief on the Apadana

The Tachara, the winter palace of Darius The Great. of of the few survived the burning by Alexander.

Next stop was Yazd, the desert city. We took the VIP bus again, and this time spent 6 hours in 448 km journey. Yazd is a city of long history, dating back to the time of Median Empire. It also was and still remains a Zoroastrian center in Iran. Our highlight was to see some Zoroastrian temples and of course getting lost in one of its neverending koocheh – the typical small alleys.

Walking down the koocheh - the long and winding alleys in Yazd

We stayed in a traditional house, which similar to the one we stayed before in Shiraz, has interesting details, like the interior and exterior façade, windows with stained glass, a courtyard and fish pond that made my daughters play with delight. 

Narenjestan Traditional House in Yazd

Me & Ishtar at Narenjestan

A visit to Yazd is not complete without a short trip to its surrounding areas which without doubt a very rewarding experience. So we took a day tour with Abbas, the driver we met in the Ghadir terminal. He took us to Karanagh, Chak Chak, Meybod and to fulfill my desire, to the desert. To our surprise, he prepared himself with a jar of tea and fruits for us to enjoy during the trip. Iranian hospitality in another level. 

Beautiful view of the road to Chak Chak, seen from our car

The view from atop Chak Chak Temple

Me and Ishtar at the desert

Next up to our trip was Esfahan, the city dubbed as half of the world. It’s a big city and everything was a tad bit more expensive than Shiraz or Yazd. Not to mention it’s colder than those two previous cities. It’s even the coldest city in our entire trip with -8 Celcius degree in the morning. It got worse near the buildings when wind chill hit our face the hardest.

the celebrated Si O Seh bridge in Isfahan

In front of Imam Mosque in Naqsh-e Jahan square, Isfahan

And it’s in Isfahan we shopped, and eat. This time with less caution we ordered fesenjan and doogh. To our tastebud these two was an odd combination, Fesenjan was meat cooked in sour and sweet paste of pomegranate while doogh was a salty yoghurt drink. Weird. LOL.

Posing at Bastani Traditional Restaurant

Mixed kebab and fesenjan

To close our winter trip, I insisted to go to Tochal, a ski resort within an hour drive from Tehran. My husband made us took the metro again, this time long the way to Tajrish at the end of the metro line, then took a shared taxi to Velenjak, where the ski resort lies.

Ishtar playing snow in Tochal

Tochal ski resort has been open to public since 1978 and one with the longest telecabin line. Open all year long at the altitude of 3740m above sea level it is the sixth highest resort in the world based on altitude according to Snow Magazine. No wonder my daughter got struck with altitude sickness near the top telecabin station. But to see the snow in such a vast area, blinded our sight and made our fingers numb with its bitter coldness, it’s a perfect way to end our winter trip.